there was salt, big grains of salt!

Today, I surfed. And for those of you who know me, you know that means I am a happy woman. Yesterday I layed on the beach in my bikini and watched good surfers tear up nearly perfect 4-8`Chilean waves. I wondered, who am I? How did I get here, at this time, in my life? January 15, at the beach, in the southern hemisphere, smelling salty breezes... Whose gift have I received? What fortune have I run across?

Well, I know how I got here at least. From La Paz, I took a 4 hour bus to Oruro. Then a 7 hour train to Uyuni. Then I slept and the next morning got into a land crusier. I sat in that for three days and travelled to the moon. Then I got out at the Bolivian border post and got on a bus that took me to Chile. I stayed in an artsy desert town and then took two more buses over two days, 8 hours each, and arrived here, in La Serena. Suddenly everything was hot and clean and beautiful. And there I was. At the beach.

Bolivia was fantastic. I loved it there. The people are so nice and their country is spectacular. My favorite little bit from that long train ride (besides seeing lots of llamas and flamingos) was this little boy standing to the side of the tracks with his chest puffed out and arms at his side. He was wearing a little striped yellow polo shirt and had dirt all over. He was looking up at our train, from 15 feet away, with a look of complete excitement and fulfilment. I wondered if he just loved trains, or if he wanted to get on and go somewhere, out of his dry and dusty home in the middle of the middle of nowhere. He was really precious. His piece of Bolivia is filled with space and ghost towns and old mines. Wind and sun and flourescent pink birds. He has no idea how special it is. Or maybe he does.

From the jeep, I saw the most desolate and beautiful landscapes that I have ever seen. An exaggeration, you are thinking. But it was so crazy! Huge wide plains rung by huge colored mountains and the strongest sun. Our first day was at the salt flats. The world´s largest salt flats. White, white, white. There was a volcanic island right in the middle with cacti over 1200 years old living there. It was a trip to drive across the blinding surface and then stop for lunch at this dry oasis. I even saw a little bird on the island!

We drove on to a hotel. A hotel made of salt. The walls, the beds, the floor, the tables - all salt. It was great. Luckily the shower walls were not made of salt, nor was the roof.

The next day we left the salt for the desert. I saw every tint and shade of green to tan to red that there is. The minerals in this volcanic zone make the colors out of this world. Muddy flats, rocky desert, sandy desert and UFO looking rocks. And the volcanoes. They are everywhere. High peaks coming out of high desert, with a donut powdered sugar dusting of snow on top. I got a sore neck looking out at it all. The next day featured more desert, geysers, colored lakes, and hot springs. It even snowed for a bit at the geysers!

I´ll have to say that I am thankful for the safety measures that we have back home near active volcanic zones. I was worried for those tourists that were teetering at the edge of bubbling mud pots and ferociously steaming geysers. I kept my distance for fear of becoming a headline.

This picture is of the two brits and two kiwis that we travelled to the moon with. Our jeep is the one with the hood open. We had some trouble with the starter...

Lets go over wildlife. I have seen thousands of flamingos. I saw a bunch of penguins from the bus going down Chile. Lots of sheep. I have seen llamas, alpacas, and the other ones like them, to boot. One tarantula. I have seen one dead dog in La Paz and two dead birds. And lots of stray dogs eating dead birds.

And food. I ate llama steak. That was yummy. I eat a lot of stale bread with peach jam, which is the featured entre of `included`breakfasts. I drink instant coffe and lots of soda. They do scrambled eggs a lot and fry anything they can get into their baskets. Fried meat, bread, and vegetables. Mmmm. Over all, it was a bumpy and dusty ride through the lunar landscapes of Bolivia. I loved every second. And wanted to paint and draw and photograph every scene, so that I could get it into my pocket and take it with me forever.

So now we are in Chile. Its a lot like America. They even warn of cancer on cigarette advertisements and have guardrails along the (paved) roads. I can pay $7 for a sandwich and $13 for a room. La Serena is beautiful, where Europe meets San Diego. Stately old buildings, palm trees, boulevards and the beach. I didn´t imagine that they would be renting surfboards, but oh my luck. Technical stats: Waves 4`-6`. 7`-6" Bic board. 3-2mm wetsuit. Lots of whitewater, but not too strong. Salty washing machine wipeouts - 3. Fun - 10 of 10. Sunburn - hands and face. It was a relaxing and fun day. This life of leisure is great.

Tomorrow, we get another 8 hour bus ride (hopefully filled with spanish dubbed movies, little kids throwing up, and the sickest lunches you can imagine, to keep up with the other trips) to Santiago. We will visit with Melissa`s friend for two days then head to Mendoza. There, we will begin our farming experience on the apple orchard. Buy some Mendoza, Argentina wine to celebrate with us. The beginning of our education. To know the people, the countryside, and the meaning of hard work. Salute!