before i begin, i would like to take a moment to honor my last blog entry, lost to a power outage. it was long, poetic and illustrative, but not much has really changed so here goes again.
im tired. lots of surfing, eating, sweating, making shell necklaces, walking down beaches, tanning my skin, eating ice cream and laying in hammocks. the temps are going up, and my clothes are staying off. i enjoy sitting around in a swimsuit though, so im happy.
theres a certain dirty, charm about surfing. you are wet and sandy, all the time. you have snot running out of your nose and bruises all over your body (well, I do at least). your hair is plastered sideways and your swim shorts are knotted up around your knees. but its fine! you feel great. you feel aware of your own strength, and lack of. you forget everything else in life for the time you are in the surf. its just so fun. shooting along over water, on your feet. i think my most fun waves are the little ones i ride forever when coming in. just gliding on your tummy forever. i laugh like a baby. i have further visions in the evenings, of my ghia with a roof rack and a board headed to westport. it'll be a rough adjustment back to wetsuits and cold. but ill just make do with what i have. and still love it.
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